Colour & Heat Damage

What is heat damage?

Heat damage on curly hair occurs when excessive or frequent exposure to heat tools, such as flat irons, curling wands, or blow dryers, disrupts the natural curl pattern and weakens the hair structure. Curly hair is particularly vulnerable because it is can be more fragile, drier, and more porous than other hair types.

Here are the main causes of heat damage on curly hair:

High Heat Temperatures: Using styling tools at very high temperatures can break down the protein bonds in the hair, causing it to lose its natural shape and curl pattern.
Frequent Heat Styling: Repeated use of heat tools without allowing the hair time to recover can lead to cumulative damage, making hair more prone to dryness, split ends, and breakage.
Lack of Heat Protection: Applying a heat protectant before styling creates a barrier. Without using a proper heat protectant, you increase the likelihood of damage by exposing hair directly to heat.
Improper Use of Tools: Holding heat styling tools on the hair for too long or using them on wet hair can cause the moisture in the hair to evaporate quickly, leading to dryness and breakage. Your hair is also in a more fragile state when wet.

If curly hair is heat-damaged, it may appear frizzy, lose its definition, become dry, and have a rough texture. Restoring heat-damaged curls often requires deep conditioning treatments, regular trims, and a reduction in heat styling.

What is colour damage?

Similarly, colour damage on curly hair occurs when the chemicals used in hair dyes, especially permanent and lightening products, weaken and dry out the hair strands, altering their natural structure and curl pattern. Curly hair is more prone to damage from colouring because it is naturally drier and more porous, which means it absorbs colour more readily but also loses moisture more easily.

Here are the main causes of colour damage on curly hair:

Harsh Chemical Ingredients: Permanent hair dyes often contain ammonia and peroxide to open the hair cuticle and deposit colour. Additionally, when lightening your hair with bleach, it strips the hair of its natural pigments to lighten it which can cause significant moisture loss and break down the hair’s protein structure. These chemicals can weaken the hair, making it more fragile and prone to dryness and breakage.
Frequent Colouring: Constantly applying colour, especially lightening or bleaching, weakens the hair’s structural integrity over time. Curly hair can become brittle, frizzy, and lose its definition with repeated exposure to these chemicals.
Inadequate Hair Preparation: Colouring curly hair without properly preparing it by moisturizing and fortifying the strands can increase the risk of damage. Hair that is already dry or brittle before colouring may suffer more from the process.
Lack of Post-Dye Care: Failing to use conditioners and deep conditioning treatments can cause colour-treated hair to dry out and become brittle. Curly hair needs extra moisture and nourishment after colouring to maintain its health and elasticity.

If curly hair has colour damage it may appear frizzy or dry, be brittle and prone to breakage, have more split ends and an overall looser curl pattern. To minimize damage when colouring curly hair, it’s essential to use nourishing products, avoid excessive processing, and incorporate regular moisture and protein treatments to keep the hair strong and hydrated. When colouring your hair, it is always best to take your time instead of rushing to get to your final desired results.

What is the best way to rehab colour & heat damaged hair?

Repairing heat and/or colour-damaged curly hair requires a consistent, restorative hair care routine to rebuild strength, restore moisture, and help regain your natural curl pattern. Here’s a step-by-step guide on the best ways to repair heat and/or colour-damaged curly hair:

1. Trim Regularly: Damaged ends can lead to further breakage, frizz, and split ends. Regular trims help remove the most damaged parts, encouraging healthier hair growth. Damaged hair needs to be trimmed more frequently so trim every 6-8 weeks, focusing on removing split ends and the driest portions of the hair.

2. Use Deep Conditioning Treatments: Deep conditioners help restore lost moisture, especially in hair that has been dehydrated by heat or chemical processing. Use a deep conditioning mask or treatment at least once a week. Look for products with hydrating ingredients like shea butter, argan oil, and glycerin. These help infuse moisture into the hair and seal it in.

Pro Tip: Apply heat (with a shower cap or a steamer) while the deep conditioner or masque is in your hair for deeper penetration.

3. Incorporate Protein Treatments: Heat and chemical processes break down the protein bonds in your hair, weakening the structure and leading to loss of elasticity and curl definition. Protein treatments help to repair the damage by rebuilding these bonds. Look for products with hydrolyzed keratin, silk proteins, or wheat/oat protein. Alternate between moisturizing deep conditioners and protein treatments to avoid protein overload.

4. Switch to Sulfate-Free and Silicone-Free Shampoos: Sulfates can strip moisture from hair, which is already compromised after heat and colour treatments. Silicones can create buildup, blocking moisture from penetrating the hair shaft.

5. Minimize Heat Styling: Avoid heat tools while your hair recovers. If you must use heat, always apply a heat protectant and keep the temperature below 300°F (150°C). Instead try exploring heatless styling methods, like braids, twists, or curlformers, to achieve your desired look without heat damage.

6. Keep Hair Moisturized with Leave-In Conditioners: Damaged curly hair needs constant moisture to help regain its health. Use a leave-in conditioner or moisturizing cream when styling to keep your hair hydrated. Look for products with lightweight oils (argan oil, jojoba oil) and humectants (glycerin, aloe vera) that attract and lock in moisture.

Pro Tip: Refresh curls with a water-based leave-in mixed with water in a spray bottle to rehydrate between washes.

7. Protect Your Hair at Night: Friction from pillows can cause further damage to fragile curls, leading to more breakage and frizz. Sleep with a silk/satin bonnet or on a silk/satin pillowcase to reduce friction. You can also braid or twist your hair at night to keep it protected and less prone to tangling.

8. Reduce Chemical Treatments: Chemical treatments like colouring or relaxing can further weaken already damaged hair. Minimize chemical treatments and give your hair a break to recover. If you do need to colour your hair, consider gentler alternatives like semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes, and avoid bleaching.

9. Hydrate from the Inside: Proper hydration from within is important for hair health. Drink plenty of water and maintain a balanced diet rich in vitamins (like B vitamins, vitamin E, and omega-3 fatty acids) to support hair health.

10. Be Patient and Gentle: Hair repair takes time, and rough handling can worsen damage. Detangle gently using a wide-tooth comb or your fingers, and avoid tight hairstyles that cause tension on the hair.

Final Thoughts

By incorporating these steps, you can gradually repair heat and/or colour-damaged curly hair, restore moisture and elasticity, and promote healthier, more defined curls.

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Disclaimer: The information contained in this article is provided for informational purposes only and is not intended to be used to diagnose or treat any health conditions. Medical advice should always come from your physician or a trained professional.